Why Patriarche is our deliciously savory twist on the classic GSM.
Do you know that Rhône style blends often go by the moniker GSM? It stands for Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, three grapes that have been blended together for centuries in Southern Rhône villages. The most famous of these is Châteauneuf du Pape, French for new house of the Pope. That house was actually a 14th century castle built during the Avignon Papacy. It barely stands today because of World War II, but back then the popes were enjoying wines made from this historic blend.
Fast forward to the 1980s when Australian winemakers coined the term GSM. They needed a simple, catchy way to describe their new world takes on these old world blends and the acronym stuck. Today you see GSM on shelves from Paso Robles to McLaren Vale.
At Holly’s Hill we make a couple wines that fit this general style. Lover’s Leap leans Grenache based with bright fruits and a lighter touch. Think strawberry fruit, herbes de Provence and a smooth finish. We style it after Cotes du Rhone. Patriarche is always Mourvèdre dominant and usually followed by Syrah, Grenache and a bit of Counoise. Think dark berries, earthy notes and savory tannins. (Why Mourvèdre? It is simple, we think it grows the best in our mountain soils.) We style this wine after Chateauneuf du Pape. Its Mourvèdre backbone gives it so much savory depth that, as a food loving jokester, I can’t resist calling Patriarche an MSG blend.
This usually earns me either a blank stare or a tiny smile and honestly I deserve both. MSG, or monosodium glutamate, is the sodium salt of glutamic acid. It is a naturally occurring amino acid found in foods like tomatoes, mushrooms, aged cheese and cured meats. When you taste umami, the savory taste that Japanese scientist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda identified as the fifth basic flavor, you are tasting glutamate. It gives food that irresistible quality that keeps you reaching for another bite. By the way, despite the scary reputation, MSG does not cause headaches or harm. That myth was debunked years ago. Your palate is safe. If you want to taste umami in action, you can find some of our favorite umami rich recipes here.
So yes, part of me thinks it is funny to call our Mourvèdre based wine an MSG blend because it has depth and that lingering savory quality that makes you want another sip. Most customers do not exactly roll on the floor laughing at this joke. But a few get it and those few immediately become my favorites.
If you are curious how our GSM and MSG differ, ask for a Patriarche and Lover’s Leap side by side next time you are up on the hill.
By the way, our Patriarche gets its name from Carrie’s dad, Tom, who along with Holly fell in love with Châteauneuf du Pape wines on their honeymoon.
A few of our favorite CdP wines: Beaucastel (where our vine cuttings are from), Clos des Pape (a classic), Vieux Donjon (great wine at a good price), Grand Veneur (value, value, value).
Co-winemaker with Carrie, and lucky to be her husband,
Josh
