At Holly’s Hill Vineyards, tucked into the rugged beauty of California’s Sierra Nevada foothills, we’ve always prided ourselves on our ability to adapt. A recent article comparing the current struggles of the region’s grape growers and winemakers to the Gold Rush era’s boom-and-bust cycles certainly rings true—times are tough. With unpicked grapes, winery closures, and a flood of properties for sale, the Sierra foothills wine industry faces an uphill climb. One of our long-term custom crush clients has even folded. But here at Holly’s Hill, we’re not just surviving, we’re finding new ways to flourish.
The challenges are real. According to Mike Dunne’s article in the San Francisco Chronicle, Amador County had an estimated 60% of last year’s grape crop go unharvested. At the same time, in nearby Calaveras County, grower Gay Callan reports leaving a third of her fruit on the vine, unable to find buyers. High-profile wineries like Cooper Vineyards, C.G. Di Arie, and Terra d’Oro are on the market, and even Turley Wine Cellars recently shuttered its Amador facility due to rising costs. Real estate broker David Ashcraft notes an unprecedented number of listings—15 of his 22 are in the foothills. It’s a sobering moment for a region that’s long struggled to claim its place among California’s fine-wine elite.
Dunne does mention “silver linings,” and at Holly’s Hill, we see opportunity in adversity. We’ve taken bold steps to diversify and deepen our roots in this community. First, we’ve added our own brewery to the estate. Crafting small-batch beers alongside our Rhône-style wines lets us tap into a growing audience while staying true to our artisanal ethos. The brewery isn’t just a side project; it’s a celebration of the same creativity and terroir that define our wines, offering visitors a chance to enjoy a crisp ale with a view of our rolling vineyards.
Second, we’ve introduced daily food menus to elevate the experience. Whether it’s a charcuterie board to complement our Viognier or a hearty meal to match our robust Patriarch blend, our food offerings turn a tasting into a full sensory escape. It’s about creating a destination where people linger, connect, and leave with a story to tell.
These adaptations reflect the resilience that’s always defined the foothills. While the region may lack Napa’s glitz or a marquee figure like Robert Mondavi, as Dunne points out in the article, we have something better: authenticity and grit. As Gay Callan says, “The quality is exceptional, but it is underrated.” We couldn’t agree more. Our wines deliver bold, honest flavors at prices that invite everyone to the table. And we’re not alone—growers across the region are experimenting with varieties like Aglianico, Vermentino, and Tempranillo, proving the foothills can hold their own. And to be honest, we don’t want to be like Napa. The Sierra Foothills are for people who seek adventure and are anxious to explore.
The past decade has thrown everything at us—wildfire smoke, freezes, and now economic uncertainty. But we’re inspired by voices like Chaim Gur-Arieh, the 90-year-old founder of C.G. Di Arie, who insists, “This is a great region that hasn’t been recognized. It’s just beginning.” We share his optimism. With growing cities like Sacramento and El Dorado Hills nearby, we’re betting on a new wave of visitors discovering what we’ve known all along: the foothills are special.
Perhaps the article should be renamed, replacing “peril,”: A historic California wine region is in transition: ‘I am optimistic’.
So come visit us in El Dorado County. Sip a glass of our Roussanne, enjoy a pint from our brewery, and savor a meal made with love. The Sierra foothills may be at a crossroads, but at Holly’s Hill Vineyards, we’re writing a new story—one pint, one plate, and one unforgettable bottle at a time.
Cheers,
The Holly’s Hill Vineyards Team
Read the entire San Francisco Chronicle article here
